AspectDetail
General Characteristics
PrevalenceLove for ornaments and jewelry is a universal phenomenon.
OriginLikely began with the transition from nomadic life to settled agriculture.
Historical EvidenceAncient scriptures (Ramayana, Mahabharata), archaeological excavations (Mohenjodaro, Harappa), and old temple art provide descriptions.
PurposePrimarily for adornment; decorations often inspired by the region’s flora and fauna.
Preferred MetalSilver is the preferred metal as gold is relatively rare; most ornaments feature heavy, bold designs.
Economic IndicatorThe extent of one’s jewelry collection often serves as an indicator of economic status.
Body Parts AdornedCrafted for the head, forehead, ears, nose, neck, arms, wrists, fingers, ankles, and toes.
Specific Ornaments (Examples)
Head/Hair Ornaments‘Chiri’ or ‘Chak’ (fastened on the head, silver and gold, popular in upper regions); ‘Chilki’ (silver, fastened to the hair by a chain, also called ‘Shringar patti’).
Ear Ornaments‘Thumka’ or ‘Jhumka’ (often with a bell-shaped pendant); ‘Phulian’ (small, sometimes with a conical turquoise); ‘Dandi’ (simple earring with coiled wire); ‘Chhodku Jhumkas’; ‘Bundes’ (smaller tops); ‘Litkani’ (triangular Bunde); ‘Gol’ (large, favored by Gujjar women, with tinsel, hollow beads, and a wire-knit chain); ‘Chalik’ or ‘Kante’ (silver); ‘Kanbali’ (larger size); ‘Kan-phul’ (bunch of silver flowers, also ‘pharloc’ or ‘gokharu’, with a plaque and bell-shaped pendant).
Nose Ornaments‘Koka’ (small gold knob, often with a ‘thewa’ or shining jewel); ‘Phuli’ (usually star-shaped with a central jewel, gold face with a silver pin); ‘Laung’ (gold-studded nose top, disc-shaped, 5-10 grams); ‘Tili’ (small, about one gram, common for young girls); ‘Nath’ (large nose ring, often with a chain attached to the hair); ‘Nathni’ (smaller, for daily use).
Neck Ornaments‘Hansali’ (silver necklace, about 40 grams and ten centimeters long); ‘Jomala’ (simple garland made of coins, historically silver); ‘Himail’ or ‘Paoli’ (necklaces often with low-denomination coins, in Kinnaur known as ‘bitri’, ‘daroli’, or ‘chandrumalang’, sometimes studded with coral or turquoise); ‘Kantha’ or ‘Kanthi’ (silver beads on a thread, about 50 grams, also ‘mala’, ‘kandhri’, or ‘upalka’; heavier versions like ‘Kach’, ‘Patkachong’, or ‘kachong’ feature multiple silver strings and triangular plaques); ‘Chandrabhar’ (chains of star-shaped units with enamel work, now less common); ‘Locket’ or ‘Ranihar’ (popular among town ladies, often heavy and worn by the wealthy); ‘Tandeera’ or ‘Hansli’ (solid metal neck ornament, 35-50 cm circumference, with one thicker half); ‘Singi’ (pipe-shaped, with a bend, worn for good luck and to ward off evil spirits); ‘Dholl’ (cylindrical pendant).
Anklets‘Pajeb’ (silver, about a quarter kilogram, with varieties like ‘Shakuntala Chain’, ‘Gulshan patti’, and ‘Phulu’, featuring small and large drops).
Toe Rings‘Anguthari’ (silver ring for the toe); ‘Anguthure’ (silver ring for the big toe); and ‘Chhalle’ (including ‘Bkhhu’, ‘Phullu’, ‘Guthara’).
InfluencesMany Pahari jewelry pieces show influences from Mughal style (e.g., ‘tabiz’, ‘talis’, ‘puzeb’, ‘chanki’) and are often inspired by the surrounding natural environment.
DisplayWomen proudly display their jewelry and ornaments during special occasions like marriages, birth ceremonies, and religious fairs and festivals.
TrendsWhile fondness for ornaments may be declining in urbanized areas, the hills and mountains are likely to retain these traditions due to economic stability from horticulture reducing migration.

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